Posted by FLORIDNEPAL on Friday, December 19, 2008
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Nar phu valley trekking
is probably the best
trek of Annapurna
region. Nar-Phu is
situated in the high
remote region towards
the east of Mustang,
adjoining Tibet. The
trek takes you to the
heart of Nar-Phu. The
region is wild and
largely uninhabited.
There are only a few
flat-roofed
Tibetan-style villages
along the valley and
ancient fortresses built
on the rock. You can
find some of the oldest
Buddhist and Bon Po
temples in this region
along with magic cove in
the Himalayas.
Exploring the valley to
the north, visiting Phu
village situated on the
edge, you travel south
to Nar Village. The
valley along with the
Thoche village is
surrounded by Peri
Himalaya to the north,
Gangla and Kangguru to
the east and Damodar
Himalaya to the west.
Despite the prosperity
of the other area in
Manang, people in this
valley have remained
untouched until now.
Their dialect is
different from others
and they have not left
their nomadic tradition.
This is a trek that
combines high peaks and
passes, glaciers, remote
villages, narrow
canyons, lovely forests,
amazing rock formations,
yaks, gompas and unique
Himalayan cultures.
Trekking the standard
Annapurna circuit, the
bridge leading over the
Maryland River to the
steep portals of the Nar/Phu
valley system is easily
missed, but although the
entrances is narrow and
forested, the valley
system above opens up to
a huge expanse of high
snow-peaks, ancient
villages and high
altitude grazing
settlements. Two long
days of walking from the
border of Tibet, Tilman
first explored this
region in 1950s. Closed
to trekkers until late
2002, very few
westerners have explored
these virtually
untouched villages or
climbed the many
7000-meters peak
surrounded it. |
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Itinerary of
Nar Phu with Annapurna
circuit trek in Details |
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Day 01 |
Drive from Kathmandu to
Beshishahar (760m.) by bus and
it takes approximately seven
hours. You drive along the
Kathmandu-Pokhara Highway to
Dumre and then follow the
narrow and paved road by the
Marsyangdi River to Besi Sahar
(823m.). Beshishahar is the
district headquarters of
Lamjung district. All the
local government offices are
situated here. From here, you
can see some of mountain
peaks, natural sceneries
surrounding the valley and the
daily activities of local
people. This headquarter is
the centre from where the
daily usable commodities are
supplied to the different
villages and numerous towns.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 02 |
Trek from Beshishahar
to Bahundanda (1310m.) which
takes about six hours. The
first part of the trail passes
through flat level along the
bank of the Marshyangdi River.
You can enjoy the sceneries
and the local culture of
Gurung community. After lunch
at Ngadi, the trail goes
steeply upwards to Bahundanda
which takes about two hours.
At this point, you can see the
area surrounded by
eye-catching scenarios with
snow capped mountains.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 03 |
Trek from Bahundanda
to Chamje (1430m.) and it
takes approximately six hours.
A steep trail descends for
early half an hour and then
follows flat path through rice
terraces, before crossing a
stream at the bottom of a
small waterfall. It then
climbs again and traverses the
hillside high above the river
before reaching the village of
Lali Gaon. Ahead, the
Marsyangdi valley forms a
steep V-shape, and you follow
the winding mountain path down
through Syange (1100m.) where
there is a beautiful waterfall
above it and along the river
for some distance. The trail
then climbs steeply and the
path is cut into the sheer
cliff-face some 200-300m above
the riverbed. Eventually you
descend to the stone village
of Jagat (1330m.) situated on
a shelf which juts into the
precipitous Marsyangdi valley.
Now the trail begins to
observe small ups and down to
Chamje through the forests.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 04 |
Trek from Chamje
(1410m.) to Dharapani (1860m.)
and it takes about six hours.
The first part of the trail
descends to the river and
after crossing a suspension
bridge, you begin a climb to
Sattale (1550m.) on a path so
steep that it seems one slip
would send you hurtling down
into the valley. You continue
on an undulating path above
the river, and at one point,
where a tributary flows in
from the opposite bank, the
main river becomes covered
with huge boulders that hide
the water. Climbing the zigzag
path to the top of the hill,
you see the level, plain of
Tal (1700m.) before you. Tal
is the border between Manang
and Lamjung district. Though
it is enclosed by cliffs, the
level area looks reassuring
after the harrowing mountain
paths just traveled on. You
descend to a grassy riverbank,
which leads to Tal with its
hotels and teahouses. Beyond
Tal, the valley narrows and
the path becomes high and
winding, and in several areas
hewn from the rock itself.
Beyond the small village of
Karte (1900m.), there is a bit
more cliff-walking before the
path drops again to the river.
You cross a suspension bridge,
and climb the short distance
to the stone kani marking the
entrance to Dharapani
(1960m.), and your camp for
the night. Overnight stay at
camp.
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Day 05 |
Trek from Dharapani to
Koto which takes about five
hours. You trek gradual ascent
path and cross a stream to
reach Koto. The mountain views
you can enjoy are of Annapurna
II, Manaslu range and
beautiful views of forests on
the way add another dimension
to your trek. Koto is a small
village mainly inhabited by
Gurung and others. Their life
style is mainly influenced by
Buddhist Tibetans. Overnight
stay at camp.
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Day 06 |
Trek from Koto to Dharmasala and it takes about
six hours. This morning you
head out early, as you have a
long and somewhat difficult
day before you. You just past
the check post, cross the
river leading to the Nar Phu
valleys and hike up through
beautiful woods above the Phu
Khola. The route takes you
through some beautiful woods
and past several small caves,
and a pilgrims’ Dharmasala.
After you emerge out of a
narrow canyon, the trail
actually passes under a wide
waterfall just before the
Dharmasala, from where the
woods become thinner and the
vistas wider.
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Day 07 |
Trek from Dharmasala
to Kayang which takes about
six and half hours. A steep
climb up the valley along a
small, scenic river brings you
finally to high pastures on a
3,200m plateau. You pass by he
scenic kharka of Meta, 3560m,
a non permanent winter
settlement of Nar, where you
are likely to share the trail
with a few yaks! This morning
is one of the loveliest walks
in the Himalayas. The
landscape is combined with
white rocks, low shrub and
juniper, scattered evergreens,
delicate brick-red and orange
leafed bushes, crumbling
shelves of flat slate, white
and sandy trails.
The mountains around you are
clearly visible and the Phu
Kosi shadows the trail far
below. An hour past Meta,
Junam is the second
semi-permanent settlement.
Above the Kharka to the right
looms massive glacier and this
falls jaggedly down to the
high pastures above you.
The next settlement is Chako,
formerly a Khampa settlement,
where grass lies tied in
bunches to dry on all the
rooftops and prayer flags
flutter in the breeze.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 08 |
Trek from Kayang to Phu
village. Dropping steeply down
to the river, you trek for a
while along the river bank and
past the “submarine” rock,
passing some small possible
campsites along the way. You
start to see some of the
unique, colorful chortens for
which Nar and Phu are famous.
You have to walk carefully
across a small glacial stream
before reaching a larger one
with a bridge only half
covered with large slabs of
slate. Another hour and a half
of trekking through scenic
canyon lands and gorges, and
the “leaning tower of Pisa”
monolith guards the steep
trail up to the Phu gate,
called Pupigyal Kwe. This
ancient gate provides you with
you first view of the three
villages of Phu, as well as an
old “dzong” and the remains of
the two forts, all now in
ruins, but impressively
situated atop the flatlands
before Phu.
Just before the brige to Phu,
a line of wonderful chortens
color the landscape and lead
the way to the main village of
Phu, perched high up on a
hill, amphitheater style. You
will set up camp on the lower
reaches of Phu, formerly
called Gomdzong, and head up
to the famous Tashi Lhakhang
Gompa on a neighbouring
hillside to pay your respect
to Lama Karma Sonam. Overnight
stay at camp.
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Day 09 |
Excursion around Phu valley.
You can have interaction with
locals and explore up the wide
valley systems above you. You
might walk up the valley to
the summer grazing settlement
or Kharka at Ngoru, a three
hour’s walk past the gompa.
Phu itself is an incredibly
interesting village and you
can observe the villagers
spinning their yak and sheep
wool and chat. Overnight stay
at camp.
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Day 10 |
Trek from Phu valley to Junam.
You get back through Phu gate,
descend to the river and
retrace your step back to
Junam Kharka which is a lovely
spot for camping. Overnight
stay at camp.
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Day 11 |
Trek from Junam to Nar. This
day you trek down the old
bridge spanning a deep,
contoured and narrow gorge and
all the way back up again. The
scenery is stunning. Below you
sit Gyalbu Kumbu, built in
1650, and Satte Gompa , both
empty. You finally reach the
Nar gates at the top of the
hill, and pass by yet another
line of wonderfully painted,
bamboo topped chortens and a
large tiered chorten before
turning the corner and being
rewarded with sublime views of
Nar, the undulating patterns
of the surrounding barley and
mustard fields, four old
colorful and traditional
Gompas and the snow peaks
looming overhead. Overnight
stay at camp.
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Day 12 |
Explore Nar village. Nar is
bit more social and lively
than Phu and the village
‘square’ is full of chatting
women with their back-strap
looms weaving wool fabric for
rugs and blankets, pounding
mustard seeds for oil, or
spinning the ubiquitous wool
while catching up on the news.
Each family in Nar seems to
have at least one son or
daughter in a gompa, and many
live at home or visit
frequently, so there is the
resonating sound of cymbals,
chanting and drums echoing
throughout the village. Other
Nar villagers may be printing
prayer flags, doing some
carpentry, collecting wood
from the forest and carrying
large loads with a head strap
back up to the house,
harvesting the crops, tending
the yaks, sheep and goats or
spinning the prayer wheels in
the center of town. Overnight
stay at camp.
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Day 13 |
Trek from Nar village to Ngwal
after crossing Kang La pass.
The Kang La is not a diffucult
pass, but it could be a long
day if there is snow on the
pass or the altitude is taking
it’s toll. The Kang La, at
5240m, is an absolutely
spectacular pass looking over
Annapurna II, Gangapurna,
Tilicho peak, the peaks
surrounding Tilicho and the
airport at Hongde. The trail
down is steep and gradual down
towards the end.
Ngawal, on the upper Pisang
route of the Annapurna circuit
(off the main Annapurna
circuit), can be reached in as
little as two hours from the
pass, but the walk down is so
nice that you will take it
easy and enjoy the views. Just
before Ngawal is an unusual
grouping of chortens and
prayer flags, and marks a
meditation cave far up in the
hills. Ngawal is a wonderful,
old village of cobbled
streets, prayer wheels and
beautiful architecture,
obviously a hub of religious
activity in previous times.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 14 |
Trek from Ngwal to Manang
which takes about three hours.
This day you walk through the
leveled path along the bank of
Marshyangdi river to reach
Manang. On the way you pass
pine forests, villages such as
Braga and farming terraces.
You can enjoy the views of
Annapurna range, Tilicho
Mountain and beautiful
landscapes. Manang is a small
town. Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 15 |
Trek from Manang to Yak Kharka
(4350m.) and it takes about
three and half hours. Now the
trail ascends gently all the
way to Yak Kharka passing
through the Gunsang (3960m.)
village. En route, you can see
panoramic views all the day.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 16 |
Trek from Yak Kharka to
Thorong Phedi (4420m.) which
takes about 3 and half hours.
Leaving Yak Kharka, you climb
gradually to a ridge before
descending to the headwaters
of the Marsyangdi and crossing
via a covered wooden bridge.
After a short ascent up the
mountain path on the right
bank, you follow a narrow
trail across an unstable spree
slope and then descend to
Thorung Phedi. Overnight stay
at camp.
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Day 17 |
Trek from Thorong Phedi to
Muktinath (3850m.) via Thorong
La (5416m.) Pass and it takes
about seven hours. You start
early today for your crossing
of Thorung La [5416m]. The
trail becomes steep
immediately on leaving camp
but as this trail has been
used by local people for
hundreds of years the path is
well defined. The gradient
then eases and after around 4
hours of steady climbing, you
reach the chorten and prayer
flags of the pass. The views
are dramatic to say the least,
from the snow-covered
mountains above, to the head
of the Kali Gandaki valley
below and the brown and purple
hills of Mustang which are
spread out before us. The
descent to Muktinath is a knee
pounding 1600m but it's
compensated for with excellent
views of Dhaulagiri.
Eventually the moraines give
way to grassy slopes before a
pleasant walk along the Jhong
Khola Valley to Muktinath and
its shrines and temple.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 18 |
Trek from Muktinath to Kagbeni
(2895 m.) and it takes about
three and half hours. You now
begin the trek descent down
the dramatic Kali Gandaki
Gorge, initially through arid
country in the same
geographical and climatic zone
as Tibet. After passing
through Jharkot and Khingar
villages with typical Tibetan
architecture, you follow path
steeply down to Kagbeni, a
primitive village famous for
Tibetan architectures. People
living there follow the
Tibetan life style and
culture. There is situated a
monastery said to belong to
15th Century. Kagbeni is the
border for Upper Mustang.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 19 |
Trek from Kagbeni to Marpha
(2650m.) and it takes about
five and half hours. You now
begin the flat path along the
bank of dramatic Kali Gandaki
Gorge, initially through arid
country in the same
geographical and climatic zone
as Tibet upto Marpha. Marpha
is a big village enriched with
a Buddhist Monastery in
between the village which has
its own cultural importance.
It is rich in cultivating
apples. The apple brandy
available there is famous
among the local people and
travelers. Overnight stay at
camp.
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Day 20 |
Trek from Marpha to Ghasa
(2013m.) which takes about six
hours. Your trail descends
steeply through forests to
Ghasa, the last Thakali
village and the southern-most
limit of Tibetan Buddhism. The
beginning part of the trail is
stretched at almost flat level
up to Kalopani and then your
trail begins descending
steeply to Ghasa. The first
part of the trek passes
through the windy area covered
with pine forests,
rhododendron forests and
birches are seen. The
surrounding area of Ghasa is
famous destination for bird
watching and wild Marijuana.
Here you are quite amazed at
the panoramic view of Mount
Nilgiri North (7061m.),
Nilgiri Central (6940m.), and
Nilgiri South (6839m.),
Annapurna I (8091m.),
Dhaulagiri I (8167m.) and
Tukuche peak (6920m.).
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 21 |
Trek from Ghasa to Tatopani
(1189 m.) which takes about
five hours. The trail descends
steeply up to Rukse Chhahara (Rukse
Waterfall) which is amazing to
look at. There is situated the
deepest gorge of the world
between two mountains
Annapurna I (8091m.) and
Dhaulagiri I (8167m.) facing
each other near Rukse
Waterfall. Now the trail
ascends slightly to Tatopani
through different human
settlements. You can enjoy the
hot spring at Tatopani as the
word Tatopani is termed after
the natural hot spring
situated at the bank of the
Kali Gandaki River. It is
popularly believed that taking
bath in Hot Spring helps you
to get rid of skin diseases.
Along this, it gives you
physical and mental
refreshment as well. Overnight
stay at camp.
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Day 22 |
A rest day at Tatopani to
enjoy the natural hot spring
bath. It is believed that one
who takes bath get rids of
skin diseases. After several
days trekking, it is a great
idea to take bath at hot
spring and relax. Overnight
stay at camp.
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Day 23 |
Trek from Tatopani to
Ghorepani (2853 m.) for about
seven hours. Your trail passes
through flat level of the land
at some distance. Then the
trail begins ascending steeply
for at least one hour. Now
path goes up through different
villages inhabited by the
people of different caste and
agricultural land. The
majority of the people here
serve Gorkha Regiment and
Indian Regiment as well. While
trekking you cross through the
Kali Gandaki river with
panormic view of Dhaulagiri
and Annapurna ranges.
The trail ascends gently all
the way to Ghorepani passing
through small villages like
Phalate, Chitre and so on.
While trekking you pass
through rhododendron forests
and come across the wild life
such as monkeys and birds of
various species. You are
accompanied by more panoramic
views of different mountains.
Ghorepani (Watering to Horse)
is a small pass and the
village of Deurali. Although
there is time enough to
continue, it is better to stay
here overnight so that you can
make the morning trip to Poon
Hill (3180m.) for an
outstanding panorama of
Dhaulagiri I,II,III,Iv,
Tukuche peak, Dhampus peak,
Nilgir ranges,Annapurna I,
Bahra Sikhar (Twelve peaks or
renowned as French
Fang),Annapurna South,
Himchuli, Fishtail and Mardi
Himal. The view you can see
from here is probably the best
view in the world. Not only
this, Poon Hill is crowded by
different visitors to enjoy
the sunrise and sunset over
the snow-capped mountain.
Overnight stay at camp.
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Day 24 |
Trek from Ghorepani to Poon
Hill (3180m.) to Hille
(1475m.) which takes about
five hours. Early morning trip
to Poon Hill (3232m.) to enjoy
the sunrise view over Mt.
Dhaulagiri (8167m.), Tukuche
Peak (6920m.), Nilgiri
(6940m.), Varaha Shikhar
(7847m.), Mt. Annapurna I
(8091m.), Annapurna South
(7219m.), Annapurna III
(7855m.), Machhapuchhre
(6993m.), Annapurna IV
(7525m.), Annapurna II
(7937m.), Lamjung Himal
(6931m.) and other numerous
snowcapped mountain peaks.
After breakfast, you again
follow gradual descent path
through the forests of
rhododendron and oak upto
Banthanti. It is a small
village where you can pause
for hot and cold drinks. Then
the trail descends to Ulleri
(1960m.), a big Gurung village
from where you can enjoy view
of Annapurna South,
Machhapuchhre and Hiunchuli.
From here the trail upto
Tirkhedhunga is steeply
descent passing terraces and
some villages. After a short
walk of 15 minutes from
Tirkhedhunga, you reach Hille.
It is also a small Gurung
village with surrounding green
hills. Most of the inhabitants
of this village are occupied
in agriculture. Overnight stay
at camp.
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Day 25 |
Trek from Hille to Nayapul
(1050m.) via Birethanti and it
take
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