Nar Phu with Annapurna circuit trek 26 days


Nar Phu Trek

Nar phu valley trekking is probably the best trek of Annapurna region. Nar-Phu is situated in the high remote region towards the east of Mustang, adjoining Tibet. The trek takes you to the heart of Nar-Phu. The region is wild and largely uninhabited. There are only a few flat-roofed Tibetan-style villages along the valley and ancient fortresses built on the rock. You can find some of the oldest Buddhist and Bon Po temples in this region along with magic cove in the Himalayas.

Exploring the valley to the north, visiting Phu village situated on the edge, you travel south to Nar Village. The valley along with the Thoche village is surrounded by Peri Himalaya to the north, Gangla and Kangguru to the east and Damodar Himalaya to the west. Despite the prosperity of the other area in Manang, people in this valley have remained untouched until now. Their dialect is different from others and they have not left their nomadic tradition.

This is a trek that combines high peaks and passes, glaciers, remote villages, narrow canyons, lovely forests, amazing rock formations, yaks, gompas and unique Himalayan cultures. Trekking the standard Annapurna circuit, the bridge leading over the Maryland River to the steep portals of the Nar/Phu valley system is easily missed, but although the entrances is narrow and forested, the valley system above opens up to a huge expanse of high snow-peaks, ancient villages and high altitude grazing settlements. Two long days of walking from the border of Tibet, Tilman first explored this region in 1950s. Closed to trekkers until late 2002, very few westerners have explored these virtually untouched villages or climbed the many 7000-meters peak surrounded it.

 

Itinerary of Nar Phu with Annapurna circuit trek in Details

Day 01

Drive from Kathmandu to Beshishahar (760m.) by bus and it takes approximately seven hours. You drive along the Kathmandu-Pokhara Highway to Dumre and then follow the narrow and paved road by the Marsyangdi River to Besi Sahar (823m.). Beshishahar is the district headquarters of Lamjung district. All the local government offices are situated here. From here, you can see some of mountain peaks, natural sceneries surrounding the valley and the daily activities of local people. This headquarter is the centre from where the daily usable commodities are supplied to the different villages and numerous towns. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 02

Trek from Beshishahar to Bahundanda (1310m.) which takes about six hours. The first part of the trail passes through flat level along the bank of the Marshyangdi River. You can enjoy the sceneries and the local culture of Gurung community. After lunch at Ngadi, the trail goes steeply upwards to Bahundanda which takes about two hours. At this point, you can see the area surrounded by eye-catching scenarios with snow capped mountains. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 03

Trek from Bahundanda to Chamje (1430m.) and it takes approximately six hours. A steep trail descends for early half an hour and then follows flat path through rice terraces, before crossing a stream at the bottom of a small waterfall. It then climbs again and traverses the hillside high above the river before reaching the village of Lali Gaon. Ahead, the Marsyangdi valley forms a steep V-shape, and you follow the winding mountain path down through Syange (1100m.) where there is a beautiful waterfall above it and along the river for some distance. The trail then climbs steeply and the path is cut into the sheer cliff-face some 200-300m above the riverbed. Eventually you descend to the stone village of Jagat (1330m.) situated on a shelf which juts into the precipitous Marsyangdi valley. Now the trail begins to observe small ups and down to Chamje through the forests. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 04

Trek from Chamje (1410m.) to Dharapani (1860m.) and it takes about six hours. The first part of the trail descends to the river and after crossing a suspension bridge, you begin a climb to Sattale (1550m.) on a path so steep that it seems one slip would send you hurtling down into the valley. You continue on an undulating path above the river, and at one point, where a tributary flows in from the opposite bank, the main river becomes covered with huge boulders that hide the water. Climbing the zigzag path to the top of the hill, you see the level, plain of Tal (1700m.) before you. Tal is the border between Manang and Lamjung district. Though it is enclosed by cliffs, the level area looks reassuring after the harrowing mountain paths just traveled on. You descend to a grassy riverbank, which leads to Tal with its hotels and teahouses. Beyond Tal, the valley narrows and the path becomes high and winding, and in several areas hewn from the rock itself. Beyond the small village of Karte (1900m.), there is a bit more cliff-walking before the path drops again to the river. You cross a suspension bridge, and climb the short distance to the stone kani marking the entrance to Dharapani (1960m.), and your camp for the night. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 05

Trek from Dharapani to Koto which takes about five hours. You trek gradual ascent path and cross a stream to reach Koto. The mountain views you can enjoy are of Annapurna II, Manaslu range and beautiful views of forests on the way add another dimension to your trek. Koto is a small village mainly inhabited by Gurung and others. Their life style is mainly influenced by Buddhist Tibetans. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 06

Trek from Koto to Dharmasala and it takes about six hours. This morning you head out early, as you have a long and somewhat difficult day before you. You just past the check post, cross the river leading to the Nar Phu valleys and hike up through beautiful woods above the Phu Khola. The route takes you through some beautiful woods and past several small caves, and a pilgrims’ Dharmasala. After you emerge out of a narrow canyon, the trail actually passes under a wide waterfall just before the Dharmasala, from where the woods become thinner and the vistas wider.

Day 07

Trek from Dharmasala to Kayang which takes about six and half hours. A steep climb up the valley along a small, scenic river brings you finally to high pastures on a 3,200m plateau. You pass by he scenic kharka of Meta, 3560m, a non permanent winter settlement of Nar, where you are likely to share the trail with a few yaks! This morning is one of the loveliest walks in the Himalayas. The landscape is combined with white rocks, low shrub and juniper, scattered evergreens, delicate brick-red and orange leafed bushes, crumbling shelves of flat slate, white and sandy trails.

The mountains around you are clearly visible and the Phu Kosi shadows the trail far below. An hour past Meta, Junam is the second semi-permanent settlement. Above the Kharka to the right looms massive glacier and this falls jaggedly down to the high pastures above you.

The next settlement is Chako, formerly a Khampa settlement, where grass lies tied in bunches to dry on all the rooftops and prayer flags flutter in the breeze. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 08

Trek from Kayang to Phu village. Dropping steeply down to the river, you trek for a while along the river bank and past the “submarine” rock, passing some small possible campsites along the way. You start to see some of the unique, colorful chortens for which Nar and Phu are famous. You have to walk carefully across a small glacial stream before reaching a larger one with a bridge only half covered with large slabs of slate. Another hour and a half of trekking through scenic canyon lands and gorges, and the “leaning tower of Pisa” monolith guards the steep trail up to the Phu gate, called Pupigyal Kwe. This ancient gate provides you with you first view of the three villages of Phu, as well as an old “dzong” and the remains of the two forts, all now in ruins, but impressively situated atop the flatlands before Phu.

Just before the brige to Phu, a line of wonderful chortens color the landscape and lead the way to the main village of Phu, perched high up on a hill, amphitheater style. You will set up camp on the lower reaches of Phu, formerly called Gomdzong, and head up to the famous Tashi Lhakhang Gompa on a neighbouring hillside to pay your respect to Lama Karma Sonam. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 09

Excursion around Phu valley. You can have interaction with locals and explore up the wide valley systems above you. You might walk up the valley to the summer grazing settlement or Kharka at Ngoru, a three hour’s walk past the gompa. Phu itself is an incredibly interesting village and you can observe the villagers spinning their yak and sheep wool and chat. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 10

Trek from Phu valley to Junam. You get back through Phu gate, descend to the river and retrace your step back to Junam Kharka which is a lovely spot for camping. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 11

Trek from Junam to Nar. This day you trek down the old bridge spanning a deep, contoured and narrow gorge and all the way back up again. The scenery is stunning. Below you sit Gyalbu Kumbu, built in 1650, and Satte Gompa , both empty. You finally reach the Nar gates at the top of the hill, and pass by yet another line of wonderfully painted, bamboo topped chortens and a large tiered chorten before turning the corner and being rewarded with sublime views of Nar, the undulating patterns of the surrounding barley and mustard fields, four old colorful and traditional Gompas and the snow peaks looming overhead. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 12

Explore Nar village. Nar is bit more social and lively than Phu and the village ‘square’ is full of chatting women with their back-strap looms weaving wool fabric for rugs and blankets, pounding mustard seeds for oil, or spinning the ubiquitous wool while catching up on the news. Each family in Nar seems to have at least one son or daughter in a gompa, and many live at home or visit frequently, so there is the resonating sound of cymbals, chanting and drums echoing throughout the village. Other Nar villagers may be printing prayer flags, doing some carpentry, collecting wood from the forest and carrying large loads with a head strap back up to the house, harvesting the crops, tending the yaks, sheep and goats or spinning the prayer wheels in the center of town. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 13

Trek from Nar village to Ngwal after crossing Kang La pass. The Kang La is not a diffucult pass, but it could be a long day if there is snow on the pass or the altitude is taking it’s toll. The Kang La, at 5240m, is an absolutely spectacular pass looking over Annapurna II, Gangapurna, Tilicho peak, the peaks surrounding Tilicho and the airport at Hongde. The trail down is steep and gradual down towards the end.

Ngawal, on the upper Pisang route of the Annapurna circuit (off the main Annapurna circuit), can be reached in as little as two hours from the pass, but the walk down is so nice that you will take it easy and enjoy the views. Just before Ngawal is an unusual grouping of chortens and prayer flags, and marks a meditation cave far up in the hills. Ngawal is a wonderful, old village of cobbled streets, prayer wheels and beautiful architecture, obviously a hub of religious activity in previous times. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 14

Trek from Ngwal to Manang which takes about three hours. This day you walk through the leveled path along the bank of Marshyangdi river to reach Manang. On the way you pass pine forests, villages such as Braga and farming terraces. You can enjoy the views of Annapurna range, Tilicho Mountain and beautiful landscapes. Manang is a small town. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 15

Trek from Manang to Yak Kharka (4350m.) and it takes about three and half hours. Now the trail ascends gently all the way to Yak Kharka passing through the Gunsang (3960m.) village. En route, you can see panoramic views all the day. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 16

Trek from Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi (4420m.) which takes about 3 and half hours. Leaving Yak Kharka, you climb gradually to a ridge before descending to the headwaters of the Marsyangdi and crossing via a covered wooden bridge. After a short ascent up the mountain path on the right bank, you follow a narrow trail across an unstable spree slope and then descend to Thorung Phedi. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 17

Trek from Thorong Phedi to Muktinath (3850m.) via Thorong La (5416m.) Pass and it takes about seven hours. You start early today for your crossing of Thorung La [5416m]. The trail becomes steep immediately on leaving camp but as this trail has been used by local people for hundreds of years the path is well defined. The gradient then eases and after around 4 hours of steady climbing, you reach the chorten and prayer flags of the pass. The views are dramatic to say the least, from the snow-covered mountains above, to the head of the Kali Gandaki valley below and the brown and purple hills of Mustang which are spread out before us. The descent to Muktinath is a knee pounding 1600m but it's compensated for with excellent views of Dhaulagiri. Eventually the moraines give way to grassy slopes before a pleasant walk along the Jhong Khola Valley to Muktinath and its shrines and temple. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 18

Trek from Muktinath to Kagbeni (2895 m.) and it takes about three and half hours. You now begin the trek descent down the dramatic Kali Gandaki Gorge, initially through arid country in the same geographical and climatic zone as Tibet. After passing through Jharkot and Khingar villages with typical Tibetan architecture, you follow path steeply down to Kagbeni, a primitive village famous for Tibetan architectures. People living there follow the Tibetan life style and culture. There is situated a monastery said to belong to 15th Century. Kagbeni is the border for Upper Mustang. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 19

Trek from Kagbeni to Marpha (2650m.) and it takes about five and half hours. You now begin the flat path along the bank of dramatic Kali Gandaki Gorge, initially through arid country in the same geographical and climatic zone as Tibet upto Marpha. Marpha is a big village enriched with a Buddhist Monastery in between the village which has its own cultural importance. It is rich in cultivating apples. The apple brandy available there is famous among the local people and travelers. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 20

Trek from Marpha to Ghasa (2013m.) which takes about six hours. Your trail descends steeply through forests to Ghasa, the last Thakali village and the southern-most limit of Tibetan Buddhism. The beginning part of the trail is stretched at almost flat level up to Kalopani and then your trail begins descending steeply to Ghasa. The first part of the trek passes through the windy area covered with pine forests, rhododendron forests and birches are seen. The surrounding area of Ghasa is famous destination for bird watching and wild Marijuana. Here you are quite amazed at the panoramic view of Mount Nilgiri North (7061m.), Nilgiri Central (6940m.), and Nilgiri South (6839m.), Annapurna I (8091m.), Dhaulagiri I (8167m.) and Tukuche peak (6920m.). Overnight stay at camp.

Day 21

Trek from Ghasa to Tatopani (1189 m.) which takes about five hours. The trail descends steeply up to Rukse Chhahara (Rukse Waterfall) which is amazing to look at. There is situated the deepest gorge of the world between two mountains Annapurna I (8091m.) and Dhaulagiri I (8167m.) facing each other near Rukse Waterfall. Now the trail ascends slightly to Tatopani through different human settlements. You can enjoy the hot spring at Tatopani as the word Tatopani is termed after the natural hot spring situated at the bank of the Kali Gandaki River. It is popularly believed that taking bath in Hot Spring helps you to get rid of skin diseases. Along this, it gives you physical and mental refreshment as well. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 22

A rest day at Tatopani to enjoy the natural hot spring bath. It is believed that one who takes bath get rids of skin diseases. After several days trekking, it is a great idea to take bath at hot spring and relax. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 23

Trek from Tatopani to Ghorepani (2853 m.) for about seven hours. Your trail passes through flat level of the land at some distance. Then the trail begins ascending steeply for at least one hour. Now path goes up through different villages inhabited by the people of different caste and agricultural land. The majority of the people here serve Gorkha Regiment and Indian Regiment as well. While trekking you cross through the Kali Gandaki river with panormic view of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges.

The trail ascends gently all the way to Ghorepani passing through small villages like Phalate, Chitre and so on. While trekking you pass through rhododendron forests and come across the wild life such as monkeys and birds of various species. You are accompanied by more panoramic views of different mountains. Ghorepani (Watering to Horse) is a small pass and the village of Deurali. Although there is time enough to continue, it is better to stay here overnight so that you can make the morning trip to Poon Hill (3180m.) for an outstanding panorama of Dhaulagiri I,II,III,Iv, Tukuche peak, Dhampus peak, Nilgir ranges,Annapurna I, Bahra Sikhar (Twelve peaks or renowned as French Fang),Annapurna South, Himchuli, Fishtail and Mardi Himal. The view you can see from here is probably the best view in the world. Not only this, Poon Hill is crowded by different visitors to enjoy the sunrise and sunset over the snow-capped mountain. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 24

Trek from Ghorepani to Poon Hill (3180m.) to Hille (1475m.) which takes about five hours. Early morning trip to Poon Hill (3232m.) to enjoy the sunrise view over Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m.), Tukuche Peak (6920m.), Nilgiri (6940m.), Varaha Shikhar (7847m.), Mt. Annapurna I (8091m.), Annapurna South (7219m.), Annapurna III (7855m.), Machhapuchhre (6993m.), Annapurna IV (7525m.), Annapurna II (7937m.), Lamjung Himal (6931m.) and other numerous snowcapped mountain peaks. After breakfast, you again follow gradual descent path through the forests of rhododendron and oak upto Banthanti. It is a small village where you can pause for hot and cold drinks. Then the trail descends to Ulleri (1960m.), a big Gurung village from where you can enjoy view of Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre and Hiunchuli. From here the trail upto Tirkhedhunga is steeply descent passing terraces and some villages. After a short walk of 15 minutes from Tirkhedhunga, you reach Hille. It is also a small Gurung village with surrounding green hills. Most of the inhabitants of this village are occupied in agriculture. Overnight stay at camp.

Day 25

Trek from Hille to Nayapul (1050m.) via Birethanti and it take